Drinking Beer

The Pub Trade in 2013

Just before Christmas I was asked by leading pub trade mag The Publican's Morning Advertiser to give some predictions for what will happen in the UK pub trade in 2013. They had to edit for space, and killed one or two jokes in the process, so here is the full thing.

Apologies if it's a bit cliquey for those not working in the UK pub trade - I didn't have time to do proper predictions here. Normal blogging will resume just as soon as I've finished writing my next book, World's Best Cider, in about a month's time.

January

A beer blogger from Wrexham works out a definition of 'craft beer' that nobody has a problem with. She is subsequently awarded the Nobel Peace Prize.

February

The rate of pub closures rises. Everyone in the industry panics.

March

A saboteur switches George Osborne's weak Ovaltine for Timothy Taylor Landlord, and the chancellor unexpectedly tastes beer for the very first time. He uses his budget statement to issue a heartfelt apology to the nation's brewers and immediately freezes beer duty.

April

The negativity on the Publican's Morning Advertiser's online forums reaches such an intensity that it creates a black hole just outside Crawley. Professor Brian Cox is called.

May

Brew Dog releases a 4.1% ABV premium bitter brewed with moderate amounts of Fuggles and Goldings hops. Beer bloggers declare this to be a stroke of subversive genius. The Portman Group slams it as stupid and irresponsible.

June

The royal baby is born. Various brewers create commemorative ales. The Daily Mail accuses brewing industry of trying to give booze to babies.

July

The Crawley Black Hole disappears. The nation celebrates. Brian Cox reveals he did it by showing cute pictures of puppies to PMA forum contributors until they cheered up a bit. And points out that this took THREE. FUCKING. MONTHS.

August

Brew Dog's 4.1% bitter wins Champion Beer of Britain. Beer bloggers declare this to be a stroke of subversive genius. The Portman Group slams it as stupid and irresponsible.

September

The rate of pub closures falls. No one says anything about it.

October

The editor of Observer Food Monthly commissions the first article about beer in the magazine's thirteen-year history.

Just kidding.

November

Shortly after releasing his blockbusting autobiography in time for the Christmas rush, Greg Mulholland MP flies to the jungle to appear on I'm A Celebrity Get Me Out Of Here. And obviously wins it. Because he's AMAZING.

December

Wells & Young's revives Young's Christmas Pudding Ale (come on, guys, take a hint).

See you soon.

Old Friends - Strong Recommendations

I'm a simple soul me. I don't go out to find obscure beers, but beers that I can sup with pleasure and depend on. That is, incidentally, how most people drink and why, despite the bumping of gums by beer geeks about it, good old fashioned brown bitters, golden ales and mainstream lagers are so popular. Difficult to drink beers are and always will be, a minority obsession.

But I digress. I was pleased therefore to walk into the Regal Moon last night and be offered a choice of two old favourites, so I compromised and had both - not together - but one after the other of course. Ossett Silver King is a very clear, pale beer, with a crisp citric bitterness that makes it very easy to drink. A fairly regular option in the Regal Moon, it was my first non Lees beer of 2013, so a milestone of a sort. Next up was Hawkshead Lakeland Gold. Another pale one, but not as pale as Silver King, but with the emphasis more firmly on bitterness. Very pleasing with my ham, eggs and chips - told you I'm a simple soul.

And so to the Baum and the main event of the evening, my CAMRA Branch meeting. The Baum, as befitting its status as Greater Manchester Pub of the Year had a great selection on. My eye was drawn as if by a magnet to a name that always inspires confidence - Mallinsons. This time Aramis, using the French hop of that name. Pale, bitter, zesty with a full tasting bitter finish, it was a lovely beer. Of course,the thirty odd CAMRA members soon saw this off. Good for business we are. The replacement was another Mallinsons beer, this time Tethys, using Sumer hops. Not a hop I've heard of and not as strikingly good as the Aramis, but pretty decent, though if given a choice, I'd have supped them in reverse order. I finished on another very bitter beer in top condition. Marble Beers need no introduction and Marble Best did not disappoint, with a great malt backbone, backed up by layers of bitter, resiny hops. A splendid beer.

So my point is the familiar need not be boring. Beers from Ossett, Hawkshead, Mallinsons and Marble are beers not only to drink with confidence, but with clear enjoyment.

We had 34 members at our meeting last night. Good for business indeed.

My January

I've enjoyed reading various posts about dry Januarys, but while I'll be cutting down a little due to mince pie excess, January means one thing to me above all - The National Winter Ales Festival. Next week I'll go over my huge amount of paperwork and ensure all my stuff is up to date for my main role, that of Health and Safety Officer. I say main role, but that is moot, as my "other" responsibility is as Deputy Organiser, which of course gives me a sharp overview of the huge amount of work put in by a lot of very dedicated people.

It is quite amazing to look at the beer list and realise that there is a remarkably long list of beers that choose themselves, either because they are competition entries (we host the Champion Winter Beer of Britain, plus Regional Heats for next year.) There are sponsor's beers too - yes we have them otherwise the cost of entry would be prohibitive - and we have a feature this year involving Project Venus. When you take that lot out, the "free" list is a lot shorter than you'd imagine. The Beer Orderer has a remarkably difficult juggling job to do. It is a huge credit to him that despite the difficulties, we will have a fantastic choice for customers.

Meantime others have been working on foreign beer lists, cider lists, pricing, bar kit, cooling plans, electrical plans, liaison with Police, staffing, beer judging, security, logistics and a thousand other mind boggling things. In addition to door and foyer arrangements (another little sideline of mine) and Health and Safety, I'll have to get my head round a beer tasting I'll be giving to corporate customers. I haven't done one for a couple of years and while fun, they are quite a responsibility as they need a fair bit of planning.

Sometimes we wonder why we do it, but I know it will all come together and when the punters start to flood in, it will all be worthwhile.

Do come and join us and see how it has all worked out. You really will be most welcome.

National Winter Ales Festival, 23rd-26th January 2013, Sheridan Suite, Manchester, M40 8RR. Over 300 Real Ales, Ciders and Foreign Beers from around the world.

Silly Me

I don't like to start the New Year on a negative note, but it is the blogger's lot to speak as you find.

I was in a local Lees Managed House over the festive period and keen to try Lees Christmas Seasonal, Plum Pudding, I ordered a pint. The young barmaid waited while the manager was using the handpump. There was a pint of Plum Pudding sitting at the side. The manager said to her colleague "You can have this." I immediately said that I would prefer not to have the last pint poured out of a cask - I assumed she was changing the barrel - and said so. The manager assured me it was not the last pint, but that there had been a problem with the connection and this one was fine.

Now as I am fairly well known in a lot of Lees houses (though not to the manager in this case), I dislike such situations. Someone is bound to say "I see the local CAMRA Bod is in complaining about the beer." So I reluctantly accepted the pint, which wasn't great, but not bad. My second pint was terrific though; sparkling, clean and delicious. Night and day. I knew then I had been "had". Serves me right. I had my doubts and should have stood my ground, but for mixed, or maybe mixed up, reasons I didn't. But I don't like being served beer that on the evidence available to me, was known by the manager to be less than optimal. Cask beer should never be served where there is a doubt as to quality.

It won't be that way next time when I have my doubts. My first New Year's Resolution!

Happy New Year to all my readers. Have a great 2013.

What William Said

I mentioned a little while ago, that we (CAMRA Rochdale, Oldham and Bury) were visiting JW Lees Brewery as their guests, not to tour the brewery, but to hold a business meeting there. Naturally on the night, we asked William Lees Jones, the Managing Director, to say a few words. It went roughly like this:

William first of all re-iterated his own view that CAMRA was a positive force for good in the industry and that he always told fellow brewers that a good relationship with CAMRA is vital. In a wide ranging speech, highlights were that careful spending on the brewery itself, with programme of re-building over the years, had meant that the brewery was in tip top condition. As well as the ranges of cask beer being produced, the brewery has a completely up to date and flexible lager plant producing Golden Original and Carlsberg. He mentioned that Golden Original sales were very impressive and that in a recent blind tasting (in which I was involved), it had come top against leading standard lagers. William mentioned that additionally Lees are sole importers of Draught Bohemia Regent Lager which is available throughout the estate and free trade. Lees even “export” Carlsberg Lager back to Carlsberg itself. The estate will remain around 170 or so, give or take. Small pubs still give concern and where a living cannot be made for either tenant or the brewery, pubs will be sold. Trading conditions remain difficult, but the brewery has been able to increase profits slightly by buying good quality pubs from the likes of Punch and bringing out their potential. Free trade has been badly affected by micro brewers being able to undercut Lees due to Progressive Beer Duty. William felt that micros cater for a segment of the market that mainstream brewers will never cover as well and that it provided choice for consumers, though PBD does give them a considerable competitive advantage.

For the future, there will also be more investment in brewery plant and pub décor as there is no intention to quit brewing or to become a Pub Company.

Three standard cask beers plus a seasonal was the aim for all managed houses
Tenants encouraged to stock more from range
More promotion of seasonal ales
All seasonals 2013 will be single hop beers
Possible collaboration on experimental beers with a local micro
No room in Brewhouse for a pilot plant hence considering above
Pubs will continue to be bought and sold with the estate remaining around 170
£1 million is being spent on new German kegging plant (being installed currently)
Vintage Harvest Ale selling massively in the US in various forms
Manchester Star a big success in Sainsbury's Great British Beer Hunt

This was a very lively, informative and open meeting with William being questioned closely on the company's products, policies and plans. While Lees do rely on food, as William put it "I'm not here today to discuss the quality of our chips", The focus was on beer and it was good to see a local brewery still totally committed to brewing. You certainly didn't get the feeling that Lees are stuck in the past, rather, keenly aware that times are challenging and changing.

On the social side, we had a preview version of Plum Pudding, the Christmas beer and all the beers were, as you'd expect, on top form, particularly the Brewer's Dark, which I'd been looking forward to. I was rather impressed too with John Willies, a beer you don't come across all that often. I even managed to resist (just) a pint of Bohemia Regent.

And the home made meat and potato pie (from the Old Boar's Head I believe) with red cabbage was lovely too!

This article first appeared in the Winter Edition of our own More Beer Magazine. The photo is William Lees-Jones addressing members, with Head Brewer Michael Lees-Jones looking on.

Golden Pint Awards

Well Folks, put down that glass of Birra Obscura and pin back your lugholes. This is the feet on the ground, 'Golden Pint Awards. No strange beers that you have to choke down while holding your nose, or collaborations between brewers, who have you pay for them meeting up with their chums and no beers aged in feta cheese barrels or any other such bollocks and no beers to share. Just good old beer that you buy yourself and drink yourself. The key to my selections is always drinkability. Boring eh, but you are stuck with it.

Best UK Draught Beer

Tricky one this. There is always the delight of Hawkshead Windermere Pale, or NZPA, which never fail to please, or Brodies All Brett IPA, or their Sunshine even. What about great beers from Allgates or Green Mill Cat's Whiskers? (my best mild of 2012). Many worthy possibilities, but my awards goes to Ossett Citra. A beautiful example of a single hopped beer, which I just kept repeat ordering until the last bus.

Best UK Bottled or Canned Beer

Even trickier since I rarely drink any. I have enjoyed the beers from my local Wilson Potter Brewery, which mimic cask so well and anything from Stringers in a bottle is very worthwhile. Thornbridge beers in bottle have a wonderful freshness that I really like, so it is Thornbridge Chiron. Balanced, hoppy and with great drinakability.

Best Overseas Draught Beer

Bohemia Regent is a strong contender - a lovely beer. Schneider Mein Hopfenweisse also impressed me greatly, so is a contender, but is has to be Rodenbach. In a great little boozer in snowy Blankenberg, it was oh so drinkable, with its touch of sourness and oh so memorable. Since I write almost nothing down these days, it has to stick in the memory and does.

Best Overseas Bottled or Canned Beer

Schneider Meine Hopfenweisse. Dangerously drinkable.

Best Overall Beer

No overall winner. I just couldn't pick one. Different beers are best in certain circumstances.

Best Pumpclip or Label

Lees Bitter. It means home to me beer wise.

Best UK Brewery

My "go to" breweries are Hawkshead and Thornbridge, but even though I haven't mentioned individual beers, it has to be Summer Wine. If they have a house style, it is cleanness. Their beers, no matter whether on cask or keg, complex or not, are wonderfully clean. They even do styles I don't like that much well and they are one of the few breweries whose keg beer has something to recommend it. Now that I think about it, their Rouge Hop could have been beer of the year and I don't like red ales.

Best Overseas Brewery

De Cam. Spectacularly good beers as I wrote in my blog.

Pub/Bar of the Year

I drink in a lot of really good places, so again it is down to good times with good people. Honourable mentions to the Holborn Whippet, Port St Beer House, that little pub in Blankenberg, the Ship in near home, my local the Tandle Hill Tavern and many more. There isn't an overall winner, but I'd rather be drinking "twiggy" beer with friends than great beer with strangers.

Beer Festival of the Year

National Winter Ales of course. I do help organise it after all. And GBBF was rather good back at Olympia.

Supermarket of the Year

No views

Independent Retailer of the Year

No views

Online Retailer of the Year

No views

Best Beer Book or Magazine

Beer Magazine

Best Beer Blog or Website

Honourable mentions to Boak and Bailey - relentless, but very insightful at times. Pete Brown for authority, Curmudgeon for topicality, Paul Bailey for pubs and Beer Nut for tasting notes. Overall winner though is Pump Clip Parade for its campaigning role against sexism and bad taste in British Brewing.

Best Beer Twitterer

Kristy McCready. She is brilliant. A great loss to the industry, but still interested in it you can tell.

Best Online Brewery Presence

Hardknott. Funny and likeable and they are lovely people.

Food and Beer Pairing of the Year

I'll pass on this one, but everything at the European Beer Bloggers Conference worked well.

In 2013 I’d most like to...

Still be here.

Open category - Most Improved Cask Ale Brewery

Allgates of Wigan. These boys are hitting their stride

Biggest Tossers in British Brewing?

Guess? Correct!

Sorry about the formatting. I had terrible trouble with it.

If it's Good Enough for the Consumer?

Most - the huge 90% plus majority of beer is sold by big brewers. That's a fact. When people slag off big brewers, they are, by and large dissing almost everyone that drinks beer. It isn't usually looked at that way, but that's really how it is. I'd say if that isn't snobbery, what is? But of course, I'm a beer snob too. Not as much as some, but a snob nonetheless.

There was an interesting piece in E-Malt the other day about craft beer, written (or rather his words were reported) by Graham Mackay, who it turns out, is none other than the Chairman of SAB Miller Brewing, who are pretty big in the mass produced big brands game. Noting that In the US, craft beer saw a 13% increase in volume in 2011, while overall beer sales were down by about 1.3% by volume during that same period, he said "the elimination of harsh and intense flavors has been the central sweet spot of the beer industry for decades, if not generations. If we go back 30 or 40 years and look at the formulations for the big brands that still exist, their bitterness levels in the U.S. are 7 to 9 [measured in International Bitterness Units]. Those brands, 30 or 40 year ago, were up at the 17, 18, 19 kind of level. European lagers are somewhere between 20 and 25." Today, the consumer has gone back to saying, "Let's get a bit of interest, let's have a bit of difference." So, there's been the growth of craft beer."

Now the fact that flavour and character has been eliminated from big brands is hardly a revalation, nor is the fact that a lot of consumers are turning to craft brewing as a way of getting that flavour, not only back, but enhanced. He went on to tell us that SAB Miller is entering the craft market, but admitted that it is "difficult for big companies to incubate small brands. That, at its heart, is the dilemma. To start a small brand in a credible, consistent, sticking-to-it kind of way is hard for big companies. That's what small entrepreneurs do best.” When they do enter the market, craft brewers feel "we're stealing their authenticity. What we say is, 'Let the consumer decide.' If we're authentic enough for the consumer, that's authentic enough for anyone.

Mackay sees difficult times ahead for craft beer. "I don't think the craft movement in its current guise will continue to grow indefinitely. I don't think it can. It's not economic. Too many people won't make any money. Too many of them will go out of business. And I think it will become less fashionable. These things are fashion to some extent,"

So how much of that do you agree with? Will the craft bubble burst? Will the big players whittle it away, or will they just whittle away at at it? Is it just fashion? Do these observations which are largely aimed at a US audience have much traction here? I'm not sure. I think there are two markets running on parallel lines. I doubt if craft beer will have a crash here, though they ought to watch the warning signs on overpricing, which is endemic and complacency about the big guys, which is institutional, as well as the inevitable dog eats dog situation that will develop if the market continues to grow and recession continues to provide an unhealthy backdrop to spending on beer.

At the end of the day, Mr Mackay is right about one thing. If it is authentic enough for the consumer, that's authentic enough for anyone. That's not just a warning, but a prophecy.

Read the full article here in E-Malt. Or above really!